Always Too Much
A few years ago, while perusing my younger brother's CD collection, I noticed something peculiar. It would be a bit overwrought to say that my discovery of "The Essential Luther Vandross" on his shelf made me question whether we're related. But finding out that a teenager grooves on Luther is pretty puzzling. Luther has a voice like foam shaving cream. And he's a major contributor to the genre of music that I deride as "wind chime soul."
When I heard the DJ on XM Channel 62 yesterday calling "Never Too Much" the "hit that made everyone know and talk about Luther Vandross," I was confused. How, I thought, do Luther's fans distinguish that song from any of the dozens of others in his catalog? The Vandross tunes I've heard all sound, without exception, as though Luther is singing with his mouth shut, while grinning. The band supplies the mush.
It was a visit to Little House on Clinton yesterday afternoon that brought back this wave of memories and associations. I probably sat through a dozen songs. The edgiest was "Waterfalls" by TLC. I don't know why this music bothered me so much; oftentimes at ethnic restaurants, I'm assaulted by music so loud I feel as though I'm inside the bell of the trumpet. Perhaps it's the fact that I like soul music; the R&B pap on Suite 62 is close in theory to what I like, but substantively, so, so far off.
I wouldn't say that listening to Ne-Yo ruined my meal at Little House on Clinton. But it's probably telling that it's the first thing that comes to mind. As for the food itself, pretty good. Nothing that would inspire me to return to the intersection of Clinton and Myrtle Avenues. But enough that I'd consider dropping in for the chicken and waffles combo if I happened to be in the area.
The mini waffles are definitely the highlight. They're made well in the nice presses, with what seems to be a whole wheat batter. There's a little more sophistication of taste than you get with the standard issue diner Belgian waffle.
The chicken, while better than adequate, is the missing link. I so rarely eat fried chicken that it's important that it be good when I do. Probably nothing can touch the iteration offered up by Mitchell's on Vanderbilt Ave. But it should be possible to arrive in that ballpark without too much effort.
Little House on Clinton does a nice job making a tasty batter, though not quite spicy or distinguishable enough. But it's too much, and it overwhelms the flavor of the stringy meat within. On the plus side, the Armor All coating ensures that the chicken is actually pretty moist.
I think I'll give Little House an 8. It's tough being a one-dish place. You've really got to nail the one dish.
Little House on Clinton
Clinton Ave., @ Myrtle Ave.
Cash Only
Food: 8
Decor: 6
Service: 10
Four wings and four mini waffles: $7.99
When I heard the DJ on XM Channel 62 yesterday calling "Never Too Much" the "hit that made everyone know and talk about Luther Vandross," I was confused. How, I thought, do Luther's fans distinguish that song from any of the dozens of others in his catalog? The Vandross tunes I've heard all sound, without exception, as though Luther is singing with his mouth shut, while grinning. The band supplies the mush.
It was a visit to Little House on Clinton yesterday afternoon that brought back this wave of memories and associations. I probably sat through a dozen songs. The edgiest was "Waterfalls" by TLC. I don't know why this music bothered me so much; oftentimes at ethnic restaurants, I'm assaulted by music so loud I feel as though I'm inside the bell of the trumpet. Perhaps it's the fact that I like soul music; the R&B pap on Suite 62 is close in theory to what I like, but substantively, so, so far off.
I wouldn't say that listening to Ne-Yo ruined my meal at Little House on Clinton. But it's probably telling that it's the first thing that comes to mind. As for the food itself, pretty good. Nothing that would inspire me to return to the intersection of Clinton and Myrtle Avenues. But enough that I'd consider dropping in for the chicken and waffles combo if I happened to be in the area.
The mini waffles are definitely the highlight. They're made well in the nice presses, with what seems to be a whole wheat batter. There's a little more sophistication of taste than you get with the standard issue diner Belgian waffle.
The chicken, while better than adequate, is the missing link. I so rarely eat fried chicken that it's important that it be good when I do. Probably nothing can touch the iteration offered up by Mitchell's on Vanderbilt Ave. But it should be possible to arrive in that ballpark without too much effort.
Little House on Clinton does a nice job making a tasty batter, though not quite spicy or distinguishable enough. But it's too much, and it overwhelms the flavor of the stringy meat within. On the plus side, the Armor All coating ensures that the chicken is actually pretty moist.
I think I'll give Little House an 8. It's tough being a one-dish place. You've really got to nail the one dish.
Little House on Clinton
Clinton Ave., @ Myrtle Ave.
Cash Only
Food: 8
Decor: 6
Service: 10
Four wings and four mini waffles: $7.99
posted by John_Halfz at Sunday, June 22, 2008
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